Quick question about stop, fixer & film speeds.

Discussion in 'Film, developing & other non-digital stuff' started by Obi Col Kenobi, Sep 11, 2016.

  1. Right, got another question, that is possibly a dumb question, or not... Perhaps one for @moroseduck, @Neil Piper or @Davis?

    So far, I've been developing just Ilford HP5. I've shot it at box speed and I've also successfully pushed it twice to around 1600 iso by developing it for 17 and a half minutes.

    Should I really be adjusting my stop (1 minute) and fixer times (6 and a half minutes), when pushing film or shooting film with a different speed (such as Ilford Delta 100 or 3200 - which I've recently treated myself to)?

    In other news of my continuing progress of film developing, I successfully developed my first roll of 120mm yesterday. Also developed a 35mm roll from my Sprocket Rocket. Nothing came out of the Sprocket, I either bodged the dev or the camera is as reliable as a sloth at a breakdancing convention - but yeah, another camera that I'm consigning to the s*** can.
     
  2. No, you don't need to adjust your stop/fix times if you push/pull films, just make sure your film is completely fixed when you pull it out - if the film isn't completely clear, give it another minute or two. 6.5 minutes should be plenty though.

    There isn't much to go wrong with the sprocket rocket, have you checked the shutter is actually opening when you pull the lever? If it is, then it's probably a development problem.
     
  3. Cool stuff, I'll stick with what I'm doing there. :)

    As for the Sprocket, well, I've shot two rolls recently. The first one came out looking really faded and under-exposed - got that one developed at a lab, as it was colour. The one I developed yesterday barely came out at all. There's a few details there, but it all looks over exposed - I've not bothered to scan it. It's possible I did balls something up in the development. I was pushing the film, and decided to use the dev at 23 degrees, for 10 minutes (was hp5+ and was aiming for around 800iso). But I shot most of it inside, with no flash, so figured that made sense.
     
  4. I'd check that the shutter is firing properly and that the aperture lever makes a difference, just to rule out a fault with the camera itself.

    Beyond that, looking it up the two apertures are f10 and f16, and the shutter fires at 1/100th. You could try using a meter (or another camera) to check whether you should be getting a decent exposure with whatever film you are using, and then you have a frame of reference to whether the SR should be exposing correctly. I'd use something like hp5 which should give you a good amount of latitude.
     
  5. The rule I found in one of the old Kodak docs was to test your fixer with the little piece of leader that you snipped off the film; dip it in fixer without developing it, and watch to see how long it takes to clear. If that's less than half the recommended fixing time, then your fixer is still strong. If not, it might be getting weak. Conversely, if you want to know how long to fix, just use double the time that it took for the sample film to clear. I've never fixed for 6 minutes; the longest I've ever gone is 2-ish. Apparently there can be problems if you over-fix film, but I don't know what that looks like.
     
    Davis likes this.
  6. The stop bath doesn't care about pushing and pulling. Which is no doubt why it's single and at the back of the queue.

    It's a crummy little acid that simply halts the alkaline activity of the developer.

    When I'm developing in the manner of champions (rodinal 1+100) I often laugh off stinky stop in favour of some water.

    I developed a very foot loose and fancy free aproach to timings after getting into printing. Paper was accidentally left in stop and/or fix for ages and it was always fine. I've carried this over to negative development and am super slack on times and agitation. Seems to come out ok.

    It would be great to see you ride the momentum and make some prints from your lovely fresh negatives.

    I went here: http://www.photofusion.org , enjoyed it immensely and recommend it highly.
     
    billowens likes this.
  7. Ahh, yes, the power of stand developing. I use Rodinal at 1+100 for semi-stand exclusively, and also stop development with water. So far the results have been great, and the level of effort is about as low as can be.



    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  8. I think fix will eventually start stripping the thin parts of the negatives (so the shadows) of detail, but you'd have to leave it in there for hours. It's more of a problem with FB paper, as if you don't get all the fix out of the fibres the paper will eventually degrade.
     
  9. I just use a water stop unless the dev time is under 5 mins, and as @billowens said, 6.30 is longer than I ever fix for, and I tend to be over generous and go for about 4 minutes. The suggestion of testing the cut off film leader to see how long it takes to go clear is a great one, and you'll be amazed how rapidly it does in not too old fixer.

    @IainK You got any good tips for rinsing FB prints? @billowens suggested Hypo which I will pick up at the earliest opportunity, but beyond that I could do with some suggestions. Last night I put three 4x5's in a dev tray in the sink at a very slight angle and left the tap trickling for an hour.
     
  10. Indirect advice on washing fiber based paper; the guy we bought our enlarger from was a heavy user of fiber paper for his art prints, and he had a siphon hose (which came along with the rest of the kit) to direct a slow stream of water across the washing tray while it sat in his sink. He also used something called Heico Perma Wash, which claims to reduce the wash time dramatically. His recipe was: develop for 4 min, stop 15 sec, fix 4 min, wash 2 min, perma wash 2 min, wash 2 min, flatten in a blotter book 5 min, then dry flat in a screen frame. I got the impression that some prints washed longer simply because he batched them up while he was working, but that was supposed to be the minimum time.

    We have his old stock of FB paper but haven't tried any yet. So far it is challenging enough to get good prints with resin coated paper!
     
  11. What Billowens said, really. Tray siphons are cheap and good for speeding up washing, just don't put too many prints in one tray. I do have an archival washer but find it's more hassle than it's worth.

    Perma wash aka hypoclear is a good thing to use as well in terms of speed and saving water. You can get a tester which changes colour depending upon whether the paper is washed properly or not.

    For drying FB I hang 2 prints back to back on a line overnight, which helps to keep them relatively flat as the curl cancels out as they dry. When they are completely dry they go into acid-free bags and flattened under a stack of books. I don't like blotter books as I've ruined a couple of prints with them.
     
  12. I was wondering about that; my daughter's school darkroom uses blotter books with RC paper after getting most of the water off with a squeegee, but when I did that I had a couple of prints stick to the paper and had to re-wash them to get the bits of blotter off. Now I just squeegee and then let them dry flat on a towel, since they don't curl like fiber paper does.
     
  13. Have you looked at massive dev chart? its the bible for black and white dev times both pushed, pulled and box speeds. online and on an (expensive but worth it) app.
     
    Obi Col Kenobi and billowens like this.
  14. Agreed, the app is very useful, if a bit of a clunky pig at times.
     
    Alex Purcell and Neil Piper like this.
  15. You know that feeling when you have no value to add to a thread but you want to try anyway?...

    #TumbleWeedEmoji
     
    Alex Purcell and Neil Piper like this.

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